For his Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Creative Director of Costume National, Ennio Capasa, was inspired by Italian “film noir”, but mostly by Michelangelo Antonioni. The atmosphere of the venue had the same spirit of Antonioni’s film: the expressive quality of space and the use of natural daylight. The runway setting was huge and had an open ceiling. We were about to see a “noir” collection but with a twist of sensuality, precision and mystery. Capasa presented both a man and woman collection by using three specific colors: black, white and red. Minimalism at its finest!
The opening look was a sleeveless, open shoulder shirt paired with a ruffled skirt that had just a bit of white at its lining. Then it was a series of black tailored outfits, more ruffled skirts and choker necklace made out of a silk ribbon. Then came the white looks, the details in the sleeve were what caught our attention, as the sleeve of the tuxedo’s blazer had narrow opening with small gold circled placed inside. With the same type of detail a show-stopping piece, of the white serie came out; a sleeveless tuxedo styled with the same type of chocker, but this time the same gold circles were in the shoulders.
More black outfits came out, this time showing a little bit more skin. Using what seemed to be a transparent mesh fabric with a laser cut fabric on top, the designer left us with the illusion that he had used lace. The eye-catching top of that serie was completely sheer in the back, but the front part was covered just in the right parts, with a black silk fabric and the rest was also sheer. That polo shirt with oversized sleeves was paired with black shorts.
What succeeded was a bit of surprise, the metallic! Some outfits of that serie were completely silver but had black details, and others were white or black but had silver embellishments, just like a white sleeveless tuxedo.
As Capasa said, the Costume National woman this season is “mysterious and sensual”. She’s elegant even when wearing tailored masculine clothes, but that’s when her modernity comes in just like Antonioni’s films. But she’s also a perplexed, dark but chic woman as you don’t know if you’ll catch her during her morose days when she’s wearing all black, or her feminine days when she’s wearing the right tuxedo with gold details or her very seductive days when she comes out in a all red tuxedo with the same color turtleneck top under.
Written by The Dia Diaries, Milan Fashion Contributor, Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre
Photos Courtesy of Vogue Runway
Chandia Brennen is a Certified Image Consultant and CEO of ItsGood2bME Fashion Consulting and Image Management based in Los Angeles CA, Chandia has been in the Fashion industry for over four years. She has worked for dozens of publications and holds the title of Senior Fashion Editor in both LA and NY. Chandia is a fashion scout for a Design Agency in NY and Brand Ambassador for HairEverywhere Luxury.