When talking to artists you will always come to the conclusion that what’s essential to them is being able to captivate their viewers’ attention. If Antonio Marras is the artist and we, the spectators…he had us at the invitation of his Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The designer’s unique invitation was an actual puzzle, which by looking at the designer’s mood board backstage of the show, we’ll discover that the collection is exactly that; pictures and fabrics put together forming a collage, lots of different ideas, colors and textures, décollage, trimmings and embroidery, but when put together, in the right places everything made perfect sense.
The Armenian film director, Sergej Paradžanov, inspired Antonio Marras for this season’s collection. Marras even dedicated his collection to Paradžanov and his ASHKARUMS. From the setting of the location we could tell that we were in a Persian feel, as the backdrop of the runway was filled with carpets made by the Iranian Artist, Mahmoud Saleh Mohammadi. The runway itself had enormous rocks that were all attached to the ceiling by beige threads.
As the show started with the beats of what seemed to be a Persian or Arabic song, the models started walking down the runway. A few white dresses filled with embroidery and appliqués were seen on models. The most prevalent pieces were in masculine shapes like a high neck white coatdress or blouses paired with boy shorts or oversized pants. One thing that caught our attention was the shoe accessory paired with these delicate dresses. If you thought the sneaker trend would last a brief period of time, we’re sorry to inform you that it’s here to stay. Sneakers, short boots and sandals with socks were styled with maxi dresses, shorts, midi pants and skirts. The color palette of the collection thus far was white, brown, bronze, and a little bit of gold every now and there.
But then came a revised sleeveless tuxedo suit with midi-oversized shorts, in a burnt silver color. That unique color was seen a couple of times throughout the collection in silk pants, blouses and dresses. The color was matched beautifully with beige, brown and navy green. Right after the neutrals colors, an unexpected color was seen on the runway; a sleeveless coat with a gold bow closing paired with shorts were seen, the ensemble was sky blue, bright red and yellow. The repetition of that print was seen only a couple of times but did not go unnoticed.
We also saw a few crop tops, peaking through under jackets or oversized coats. Lots of transparency and splashes of red were also spotted. We’ve discovered through that collection new proportions and volumes, and a new way to mix and match our spring coats with our oversized pants. The finale of the presentation is something we think will forever be engraved in our memories; the rocks that were placed on the runway were lifted slowly as well as the carpets. Behind the tapestries, the models dresses in all white vintage dresses some embroidered by black fabrics were standing as if they were in a frame. It was magical!
Written by: The Dia Diaries, Milan Fashion Contributor, Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre
Chandia Brennen is a Certified Image Consultant and CEO of ItsGood2bME Fashion Consulting and Image Management based in Los Angeles CA, Chandia has been in the Fashion industry for over four years. She has worked for dozens of publications and holds the title of Senior Fashion Editor in both LA and NY. Chandia is a fashion scout for a Design Agency in NY and Brand Ambassador for HairEverywhere Luxury.